![]() ![]() The seething water flattens, and seconds later the gasping snout of a wounded seal breaks the surface. The tourists glimpse a muddled flash of fins and a massive tail whipping around inside the crown of flying foam. Suddenly and almost silently, a gusher of white water explodes from the sea 100 yards from the boat. ![]() ![]() The animals’ waste saturates the breeze with sharp-smelling ammonia, and a light veil of winter air pollution hangs over the city of Cape Town, which lies just to the north. A small boat with a dozen tourists sways rhythmically in the swell just downwind of Seal Island, a strip of rock that barely clears the water and is covered with thousands of breeding Cape fur seals and tens of thousands of seabirds. It’s a shimmering early morning in False Bay, a shallow, 18-mile-wide basin on the southwest corner of South Africa. ![]()
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